Take one bite of Bin Wine Cafe's steamed Manilla clams and you'll find yourself sliding down a slippery slope, craving one of everything on the menu. Cooked in apple cider, the clams drip with sugary sweetness and anis, a truly unusual combination of flavors. Paired with the suggested 2003 Tinta de Toro, it's a match made in heaven. Otherwise eat your heart out with 21 kinds of cheese for your picking pleasure.

By providing its customers with suggested red and white wine pairings for each dish, Bin Wine Cafe helps you conserve your time and energy for enjoying your meal. The vast, fairly priced selection allows room to sample: A flight of four 2.5 oz. glasses will cost you about $14. A standard 6 oz. glass runs anywhere from $5 to $15. Each wine comes with an information card providing flavoring, vintage and recommendations for food pairings if you're serving at home.

Salvaging only the exposed brick walls of the original space, Brian Duncan and his partners (Dan Sachs, John Caputo and Joanne Chessie) created a warm, open environment perfect for a cozy date or a night out with friends. Sit at a table, the wet bar or plant yourself at the wood-burning oven bar and talk cheese with the chefs as they prepare your meal. Or grab a seat (if you're lucky) on the outdoor patio to enjoy weekend brunch, complete with bloody-mary and mimosa flights. There's also a "Weekend Nosh" menu offered from 2-5 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday, with pizzas, cheeses and sandwiches in platings for one to two or three to four people.

Whether ravenous or merely nibbling, a wino or an I-don't wino, Bin Wine Cafe will both satisfy and satiate.

Centerstage Reviewer: Emily Fiffer