Some restaurants will use any cheap ploy to lasso in customers. But Barraco's isn't trying to trick you when it promotes its deep family tradition and authentic cuisine. Catch a glimpse of the open kitchen inside this Italian eatery, and you'll see Grandma perfecting her signature sauce, or Auntie rolling mounds of dough into the thin-crust you'll soon devour. Ok, maybe it's not the Grandma and the Auntie Barraco, but there's not a frozen or premade meal in sight and the cooks seems to know their stuff.

A cozy building clad with brick and ivy is surrounded by flowery bushes and plants. The ivy seems to have made its way in the restaurant, as faux-plants wrap themselves around brick columns. White-clothed tables are scattered about the dining room and simple, but pretty artwork decorates the walls.

Dishes are a little pricy, ranging from about $10 for salads to up to $26 for entrees. A full pasta menu includes veal parmigiana ($18), chicken tetrazzini ($17.25) and baked mostaccioli Florentine ($14.50). Pizza is served thin –crust, deep-dish or Sicilian style. You can also order a Mama Barraco's stuffed pizza with ricotta cheese and spinach for $17.50 (12-inch).

The later crowd typically gathers in the bar. Don't expect things to get underway until after 11 p.m., especially on Thursdays and Fridays. You can take a seat at the bar or in the neighboring booths along the wall. A few elevated tables next to the DJ booth make for a nice place to unwind with friends. The DJ selections won't be of the club kind; expect some Floyd, '90s alternative rock and even CDs from local bands. Guzzle your favorite spirits till 3 a.m. every night of the week.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jill Kozak